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Uncommon Problems with Hand-Feeding
How to avoid them, such as Overstretched Crop, Slow/Sour Crop, Crop Burn, Stunting...
The information contained within this article is meant to acquaint a person with the numerous choices, considerations, and potential problems that can occur when hand-feeding. NOTE: Even though this article is about and shows cockatiels it is helpful for other species of birds. Please read my disclaimer.
WHY Hand-Feed?
The decision to hand-feed should be a personal choice, and not made because others say that this is the only way to guarantee a sweet hand tamed baby. I have also learned that in some countries that it’s preferable to handle the babies in the nest and have the parents wean them out. This is called Co-Parenting. The breeder/keeper handles the baby daily from the time it is young to have it tame and trustful of humans.
Another instance for hand-feeding would be Assist or Supplemental Feeding. This is done when a baby, usually the youngest in the clutch, may not be getting fed enough.
A HELPFUL ARTICLE ABOUT THIS
https://tinyurl.com/Assist-Feeding
Sometimes a weaned baby may relapse a few weeks after weaning and may need Supplemental hand-feeding until it is back eating on its own.
Video of relapsed/unweand baby: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNm-FS4ViY&NR=1&feature=fvwp&app=desktop
Other times when knowing how to hand-feed, and the correct utensil to use is when an older bird is sick and needs to be fed or medicated. Note: If the bird is older, the crop capacity is smaller, thus only feed small amounts (3-5cc), otherwise there can be risks of aspiration if too much is fed and it gushes up the neck.
Uncommon Problems with Hand-Feeding
How to avoid them, such as Overstretched Crop, Slow/Sour Crop, Crop Burn, Stunting...
The information contained within this article is meant to acquaint a person with the numerous choices, considerations, and potential problems that can occur when hand-feeding. NOTE: Even though this article is about and shows cockatiels it is helpful for other species of birds. Please read my disclaimer.
WHY Hand-Feed?
The decision to hand-feed should be a personal choice, and not made because others say that this is the only way to guarantee a sweet hand tamed baby. I have also learned that in some countries that it’s preferable to handle the babies in the nest and have the parents wean them out. This is called Co-Parenting. The breeder/keeper handles the baby daily from the time it is young to have it tame and trustful of humans.
Another instance for hand-feeding would be Assist or Supplemental Feeding. This is done when a baby, usually the youngest in the clutch, may not be getting fed enough.
A HELPFUL ARTICLE ABOUT THIS
https://tinyurl.com/Assist-Feeding
Sometimes a weaned baby may relapse a few weeks after weaning and may need Supplemental hand-feeding until it is back eating on its own.
Video of relapsed/unweand baby: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNm-FS4ViY&NR=1&feature=fvwp&app=desktop
Other times when knowing how to hand-feed, and the correct utensil to use is when an older bird is sick and needs to be fed or medicated. Note: If the bird is older, the crop capacity is smaller, thus only feed small amounts (3-5cc), otherwise there can be risks of aspiration if too much is fed and it gushes up the neck.
A HELPFUL ARTICLE ABOUT VARIOUS FEEDING UTENCILS:
https://tinyurl.com/Feeding-Utencils
Research, and ask other experienced breeders for advice, or to be your mentor. There is also a wealth of information on the internet, and internet forums. When researching, make it a point to find information that is Species Specific. What this means is any information that is specifically related to the species/type of baby you will be hand-feeding. Formula temperatures, quantities and frequencies fed do vary for different species of hand-feeding babies.
If you decide to hand-feed you will be faced with many choices. Such as: What age to remove (pull) the babies from the nest/parents? How do I keep them warm? What do I feed and how often...just for starters. Refer to your chosen source of information for the basic hand-feeding requirements and suggestions for the species you are hand-feeding.
This article shows some Essentials and Guidelines with links to other Essential info:
http://www.ask-noodles.com/less-is-more-handfeeding--weaning-cockatiels.html
When hand-feeding, it is helpful to have a few additional pieces of equipment on hand and covered in the link above.
1…At the top of the list should be a thermometer. I have learned that many problems can be avoided, such as slow/sour crop or crop burns by checking the temperature of the mixed formula prior to feeding.
WHAT IS CROP BURN?
https://tinyurl.com/Crop-Burn
2…A scale can be a good diagnostic tool to monitor the health and growth of a baby. When in doubt of how much to feed, many Hand-feeding Formulas recommend 10-12% of body weight. The best time to weigh a bird is in the AM, when it is completely empty. Ideally, up until the baby is flapping the wings and trying to fly there will be a small daily weight gain. If younger, and there is weight loss or no gain this could be cause for concern.
NotE, You can find these scales on Amazon.
Some helpful illustration of chick/baby weight and growth.
Use a glass container for mixing the formula, as plastic containers tend to harbor bacteria if there are tiny unseen scratches on the surface.
4…Not essential, but good to have on hand is some means of recording weight and how much was fed. These records can come in handy if a problem develops because you can look back at your records to determine the possible cause. You can start a journal or use a weekly planner calendar to write things down.
What Formula should I use?
Before you even contemplate what feeding utensil to use you will need to have some hand-feeding formula on hand. When new and asking you may find there is much controversy and disagreement about which hand-feeding formula is superior over another. You can research the internet or ask other breeders on forums for recommendations. Answers will vary, so bear in mind that although one hand-feeding formula may work well for one breeder or one baby, it may not work for the next. Read all available information and try to make an informed decision. When in doubt, do not hesitate to ask for additional information.
There are many choices available of commercially made formulas. Years ago when I started breeding in early 1994 there was not any commercials formulas. Breeders relied on making their own formulas from products such as Monkey Biscuits in order to hand feed their babies. Most babies did well on this, but there also was no assurance that they were nutritionally balanced, thus when problems occurred a breeder did not know if it was diet related or a serious health issue.
This is an album showing the brands of formula
http://tinypic.com/a/2rrys/3
IMPORTANT, before you begin…
Become familiar with the anatomy of the mouth, throat and crop of the bird. The opening and closing of the glottis is controlled by reflex action. A s a bird swallows, the glottis creates a seal with the choanal slit (choanal papillae), allowing air to travel from the nasal cavity to the trachea. Feel free to print out the illustration to have on hand as reference until you are totally skilled and familiar with the use of your chosen feeding utensil.
4…Not essential, but good to have on hand is some means of recording weight and how much was fed. These records can come in handy if a problem develops because you can look back at your records to determine the possible cause. You can start a journal or use a weekly planner calendar to write things down.
What Formula should I use?
Before you even contemplate what feeding utensil to use you will need to have some hand-feeding formula on hand. When new and asking you may find there is much controversy and disagreement about which hand-feeding formula is superior over another. You can research the internet or ask other breeders on forums for recommendations. Answers will vary, so bear in mind that although one hand-feeding formula may work well for one breeder or one baby, it may not work for the next. Read all available information and try to make an informed decision. When in doubt, do not hesitate to ask for additional information.
There are many choices available of commercially made formulas. Years ago when I started breeding in early 1994 there was not any commercials formulas. Breeders relied on making their own formulas from products such as Monkey Biscuits in order to hand feed their babies. Most babies did well on this, but there also was no assurance that they were nutritionally balanced, thus when problems occurred a breeder did not know if it was diet related or a serious health issue.
This is an album showing the brands of formula
http://tinypic.com/a/2rrys/3
IMPORTANT, before you begin…
Become familiar with the anatomy of the mouth, throat and crop of the bird. The opening and closing of the glottis is controlled by reflex action. A s a bird swallows, the glottis creates a seal with the choanal slit (choanal papillae), allowing air to travel from the nasal cavity to the trachea. Feel free to print out the illustration to have on hand as reference until you are totally skilled and familiar with the use of your chosen feeding utensil.
Be aware of some dangers associated with hand-feeding
NOTE: Part of an enjoyable and mutually successful hand-feeding experience with the baby is to be aware of potential problems that can occur. The secret to a hand-feeders success is to research, learn from an experienced hand-feeder, proceed slowly and do not worry. Forewarned is forearmed. Knowing the cause and visual signs helps as a preventative from this happening to you or the baby. Most of the problems listed below are rare occurrences, and easily prevented.
Aspiration, Asphyxiation: Aspiration occurs when food or liquid passes into the trachea or lungs. The most common cause, while hand-feeding, is forcing formula into the baby’s mouth too fast, resulting in the baby aspirating the formula. If the baby is unable to clear its trachea to breath it will asphyxiate and die. In order to avoid aspiration, the speed of feeding must never be rushed. Enough time must be allowed for the baby to swallow its food before pressing on the plunger to dispense more formula. Never overfeed. The crop should be nicely rounded, and no formula going up the neck. This can cause formula to flow into the throat and down its trachea, which can be life threatening. Never force the baby to eat when it is reluctant to accept food.
NOTE: Part of an enjoyable and mutually successful hand-feeding experience with the baby is to be aware of potential problems that can occur. The secret to a hand-feeders success is to research, learn from an experienced hand-feeder, proceed slowly and do not worry. Forewarned is forearmed. Knowing the cause and visual signs helps as a preventative from this happening to you or the baby. Most of the problems listed below are rare occurrences, and easily prevented.
Aspiration, Asphyxiation: Aspiration occurs when food or liquid passes into the trachea or lungs. The most common cause, while hand-feeding, is forcing formula into the baby’s mouth too fast, resulting in the baby aspirating the formula. If the baby is unable to clear its trachea to breath it will asphyxiate and die. In order to avoid aspiration, the speed of feeding must never be rushed. Enough time must be allowed for the baby to swallow its food before pressing on the plunger to dispense more formula. Never overfeed. The crop should be nicely rounded, and no formula going up the neck. This can cause formula to flow into the throat and down its trachea, which can be life threatening. Never force the baby to eat when it is reluctant to accept food.
Less common causes for aspiration is when one baby walks or climbs on another baby that has a full crop of food. The food can gush back up the neck and the inadvertently breathes in some of it. When a baby is at the age where it wants to fly, never hand-feed first. Let the baby fly and then hand-feed. If it is fed first, then takes off flying, crash lands, sometimes food can gush up the crop, into the mouth, and cause mild aspiration. With any type of aspiration, seek a vet for treatment. Until you can get to a vet, supportive supplements such as Carotene can be added to the formula.
Stress Bars, Stunting and Poor Weight Gain: If you do not mix the formula properly you could be giving the baby the wrong consistency. For example, if the formula is too thin it will not supply the nutrients needed for proper growth. As the baby is feathering out the quality of the feathers is a telltale of health and nutritional status.
Stress marks Feather growth requires a myriad of nutrients for normal feather development. Therefore, if there is disruption in the assimilation of nutrients during the time of feather development, this will result in the production of stress bars on the feathers. Stress bars appear as black or depigmented lines that transect a feather, andmultiple lines may occur at different levels on the feathers, if multiple bouts of disruptionhave occurred. If a young bird develops gastro-intestinal problems, digestive disturbances, prolonged chilling or periods when it is not fed (or fed
Stress marks Feather growth requires a myriad of nutrients for normal feather development. Therefore, if there is disruption in the assimilation of nutrients during the time of feather development, this will result in the production of stress bars on the feathers. Stress bars appear as black or depigmented lines that transect a feather, andmultiple lines may occur at different levels on the feathers, if multiple bouts of disruptionhave occurred. If a young bird develops gastro-intestinal problems, digestive disturbances, prolonged chilling or periods when it is not fed (or fed
enough), this will result in the production of stress bars at the same level on all the feathers that were developing during that time.
When evaluating a bird, if stress bars are present on all contours, remiges, retrices and coverts at the same levels on all the feathers, this is an indication that the baby/bird had periods of time when it was unwell, chilled or improperly fed.
Sometimes, a feather sheath on a growing feather will remain on a long feather well past when it should have been preened off, and this pinching may result in one feather with a depigmented line across it that might be mistaken for a stress bar.
Finding a bird with numerous lines of stress bars present on the feathers doesn't necessarily mean that it is currently sick, but it should alert an owner and avian veterinarian that the bird has had at least one episode of problems, and this bird should receive a thorough work-up to ensure that the problems are all in the past.
I believe that stress bars have been inappropriately named. They aren't about stress so much as a visual record of an unbalanced or insufficient source of nutrients. An example would be the hand-feeding formula was too thin, thus the diet is the form of stress. Stress bars form as the feather grows if the diet is missing in key nutrients. When we finally see them, after the feather has grown, the conditions that caused them may no longer exist. They will molt out and as long as the diet is improved, you shouldn't see them anymore.
The key to discerning which are stress bars and which are not is determined by how many feathers are affected. A single feather with a line of depigmentation is most likely not a stress bar feather. The above shows some visual signs of a suspected nutritional or environmental deficiency.
Dehydration: In very rare cases, very low humidity or lack of water can cause food to harden or solidify in the crop.
Dehydration can start prior to hatch. I have learned to examine each chick that had a difficult time in hatching.
How to evaluate dehydration: NOTE: The following information is appropriate for babies or adult birds in need of supportive care. Dehydration lowers blood and body fluid volumes and drops the core body temperature. Birds that suffer from shock or trauma will also benefit from hydration. The normal distribution of fluids and water in the body are as follows. Total body water in an adult bird accounts for approximately 60% the body weight, and the percentage is even higher in young birds.
Extracellular water constitutes approximately 18 to 24% of the body weight, depending on the method used to determine its volume from the birds’ age, sex, and lean body weight. Blood volume (cells and plasma) constitutes approximately 4.4 to 8.3% of body fluid volume in thickness. In other avian species, percentages can be as high as 14.3%
When a bird is losing weight part of this can be a result of losses with fluid volumes in the body, in addition to tissue loss. Loss of fluids from the body includes urine, feces, respiration, not drinking. Sources of water for the body are by ingestion, water in foods, water produced through the metabolic process in the body, and from absorption through the skin from humidity in the environment.
A physical examination can be done to determine if a bird is dehydrated. You can look for an area of the skin that is unfeathered (usually under the wing near the flank) and gently pull on the skin between your fingers. If the bird is hydrated, the elasticity of the skin will pull the skin back flush to the body. If the bird is dehydrated, the skin will remain tented from the body for a few seconds. The skin may also look very dry and have a wrinkled look. The flesh under the skin will have a reddened to bruised purple look.
Dehydration: In very rare cases, very low humidity or lack of water can cause food to harden or solidify in the crop.
Dehydration can start prior to hatch. I have learned to examine each chick that had a difficult time in hatching.
How to evaluate dehydration: NOTE: The following information is appropriate for babies or adult birds in need of supportive care. Dehydration lowers blood and body fluid volumes and drops the core body temperature. Birds that suffer from shock or trauma will also benefit from hydration. The normal distribution of fluids and water in the body are as follows. Total body water in an adult bird accounts for approximately 60% the body weight, and the percentage is even higher in young birds.
Extracellular water constitutes approximately 18 to 24% of the body weight, depending on the method used to determine its volume from the birds’ age, sex, and lean body weight. Blood volume (cells and plasma) constitutes approximately 4.4 to 8.3% of body fluid volume in thickness. In other avian species, percentages can be as high as 14.3%
When a bird is losing weight part of this can be a result of losses with fluid volumes in the body, in addition to tissue loss. Loss of fluids from the body includes urine, feces, respiration, not drinking. Sources of water for the body are by ingestion, water in foods, water produced through the metabolic process in the body, and from absorption through the skin from humidity in the environment.
A physical examination can be done to determine if a bird is dehydrated. You can look for an area of the skin that is unfeathered (usually under the wing near the flank) and gently pull on the skin between your fingers. If the bird is hydrated, the elasticity of the skin will pull the skin back flush to the body. If the bird is dehydrated, the skin will remain tented from the body for a few seconds. The skin may also look very dry and have a wrinkled look. The flesh under the skin will have a reddened to bruised purple look.
The eyes will appear dull, flat or sunken into the head. Note: the pupil of the eye should be black. If the pupil changes to a reflective opaque blue/white color it is a sign that the bird has septicemia. This is a medical emergency and the bird should be taken to a vet ASAP. The feet and beak will feel cool. The heart rate will be increased. And, the toes will have a thin stick-like look to them.
There are several degrees of dehydration that can be determined from physically looking at the bird.
1...Under 5% is very difficult to detect.
2...5 to 6% shows a very subtle loss in skin elasticity.
3...7 to 10% will show a definite loss of skin elasticity, prolonged filling time of the basilic artery and veins, dry mucous membranes, loss of brightness and roundness of the eyes, with a sunken appearance.
4...10 to 12% Tented skin stands in place, possible signs of shock, muddy color to the scales of the feet, and thinness of the toes, dry mucous membranes, cool extremities, increased heart rate, poor pulse quality.
5...Extreme depression, signs of shock and death is imminent if hydration is not corrected. Shown are some things to watch for.
One of the most important things needed is heat.
This article has helpful info: https://tinyurl.com/yxrk2k75
It is the lack of heat that can lead to crop and digestive problems.
4...10 to 12% Tented skin stands in place, possible signs of shock, muddy color to the scales of the feet, and thinness of the toes, dry mucous membranes, cool extremities, increased heart rate, poor pulse quality.
5...Extreme depression, signs of shock and death is imminent if hydration is not corrected. Shown are some things to watch for.
One of the most important things needed is heat.
This article has helpful info: https://tinyurl.com/yxrk2k75
It is the lack of heat that can lead to crop and digestive problems.
When dehydrated, the bird is in need of fluids. In order for digestion and the organs to work efficiently, the body must have good hydration. Digestion and organs can get severely impaired or fail if hydration is not corrected.
If the bird will eat and drink this is one source of fluids. Below is a recipe for a homemade electrolyte solution that can be used for the water or be carefully fed orally. Other ways of getting fluids into the body can be done by gavage or tube/crop feeding about 1/2cc at a time.
NOTE: It is best to start with small amounts when tube/crop feeding because if the bird is weaned or an adult the crop capacity and small. If too much fluid (or if giving hand-feeding formula) can gush up the esophagus and result in aspiration. In extreme cases fluids can be administered Sub-Q (subcutaneously) under the skin.
NOTE: A vet can calculate how much fluid would be needed by the stage of dehydration and body weight. The vet can also show a client how to administer the fluids, amounts and frequencies needed.
If the bird will eat and drink this is one source of fluids. Below is a recipe for a homemade electrolyte solution that can be used for the water or be carefully fed orally. Other ways of getting fluids into the body can be done by gavage or tube/crop feeding about 1/2cc at a time.
NOTE: It is best to start with small amounts when tube/crop feeding because if the bird is weaned or an adult the crop capacity and small. If too much fluid (or if giving hand-feeding formula) can gush up the esophagus and result in aspiration. In extreme cases fluids can be administered Sub-Q (subcutaneously) under the skin.
NOTE: A vet can calculate how much fluid would be needed by the stage of dehydration and body weight. The vet can also show a client how to administer the fluids, amounts and frequencies needed.
The fluids should be warmed to the birds’ body temperature. One way of doing this is to draw the fluid into a syringe, cap the syringe, and place it in a cup/container of warm water for a minute.
I have found that unflavored Coconut Water is excellent for rehydration. It can be found at most grocery stores in the bottled water section. I prefer it over electrolytes for hand-feeding and younger babies. In emergencies you can also make your own Electrolyte solution.
Home Made Lactated Ringers
Mix the following in a jar:
8 oz. of warm water
½ Tablespoon of sugar
1/8 teaspoon of salt
1/8 teaspoon of baking soda
Still well, and refrigerate. This solution is good for 2-3 days when mixed. Initially the solution can be mixed 50/50 with water till the bird gets used to the taste.
Overstretched (Pendulous) Crop: For descriptive and illustrative purposes, the crop is a bag shaped pouch of skin inside another pouch of skin, or membrane, surrounded by muscles. It is essentially a food storage/holding pouch. The crop skin and muscles have a natural elasticity and uses tiny muscles to contract (peristaltic action) and churn the food as it is being directed into the opening of the body (proventriculus) for digestion. Forcing the baby to take more formula than it can handle stretches the crop to the point that muscles are damaged which will hinder and impair it from emptying properly. The crop is then atonic. When overstretched, the crop will hang below the breastbone. When almost empty the crop will appear very much like a deflated water balloon. A small amount the food will remain in the lowest point of the crop. If the skin and muscles are stretched and damaged the baby is unable to churn and deliver the food into the proventriculus. If left uncorrected, the remaining food will develop bacteria and/or yeast. This will further slow the digestive process, in addition to further contaminating any new food fed. Yeast and/or Bacterial Infections can also be a secondary problem resulting from food undigested in the bottom of an overstretched crop.
If digestion is halted, weight loss can be rapid, and lead to eventual death, if not reversed. Applesauce can sometimes help with slow digestion and stasis, but a few cautions. Applesauce contains a predigested form of sugar. It is rich in essential vitamins, minerals, and pectin. It is the pectin in the applesauce that has the ability to take excess water from the intestines and make a soft bulk that acts as a mild, non-irritating stimulant. This in turn stimulates peristaltic action which aids in getting movement within the intestines to eliminate waste out of the body.
The only time I would advise against the use of applesauce is when a baby is dehydrated. The pectin draws water from the intestines therefore it can compound an existing problem. In addition, if the baby is sick and stressed, stress can elevate blood sugar levels, which in turn contributes to excessive urine, and more water loss.
Home Made Lactated Ringers
Mix the following in a jar:
8 oz. of warm water
½ Tablespoon of sugar
1/8 teaspoon of salt
1/8 teaspoon of baking soda
Still well, and refrigerate. This solution is good for 2-3 days when mixed. Initially the solution can be mixed 50/50 with water till the bird gets used to the taste.
Overstretched (Pendulous) Crop: For descriptive and illustrative purposes, the crop is a bag shaped pouch of skin inside another pouch of skin, or membrane, surrounded by muscles. It is essentially a food storage/holding pouch. The crop skin and muscles have a natural elasticity and uses tiny muscles to contract (peristaltic action) and churn the food as it is being directed into the opening of the body (proventriculus) for digestion. Forcing the baby to take more formula than it can handle stretches the crop to the point that muscles are damaged which will hinder and impair it from emptying properly. The crop is then atonic. When overstretched, the crop will hang below the breastbone. When almost empty the crop will appear very much like a deflated water balloon. A small amount the food will remain in the lowest point of the crop. If the skin and muscles are stretched and damaged the baby is unable to churn and deliver the food into the proventriculus. If left uncorrected, the remaining food will develop bacteria and/or yeast. This will further slow the digestive process, in addition to further contaminating any new food fed. Yeast and/or Bacterial Infections can also be a secondary problem resulting from food undigested in the bottom of an overstretched crop.
If digestion is halted, weight loss can be rapid, and lead to eventual death, if not reversed. Applesauce can sometimes help with slow digestion and stasis, but a few cautions. Applesauce contains a predigested form of sugar. It is rich in essential vitamins, minerals, and pectin. It is the pectin in the applesauce that has the ability to take excess water from the intestines and make a soft bulk that acts as a mild, non-irritating stimulant. This in turn stimulates peristaltic action which aids in getting movement within the intestines to eliminate waste out of the body.
The only time I would advise against the use of applesauce is when a baby is dehydrated. The pectin draws water from the intestines therefore it can compound an existing problem. In addition, if the baby is sick and stressed, stress can elevate blood sugar levels, which in turn contributes to excessive urine, and more water loss.
A crop bra can be fashioned to lift and support the crop tissue. This elevates the base of the crop so that it is in line with the Proventriculus. Bear in mind that both layers of tissue have to heal. It can take up to two weeks for the muscles to heal.
THIS ARTICCLE SHOWS HOW:
Crop Bra: https://tinyurl.com/y4gbhf7b
Avoid giving/feeding any ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) when the crop is overstretched. I have found that the acidity tends to impair the tissues and muscles from repairing and will compound the problem.
Another cause of overstretched crop can be from a combination of soft foods that do not have much nutritional content in addition to too much warmth in the area (nestbox or brooder) that the baby is in. This is the main cause of a condition called Sour Crop. This article has a wealth of info.
https://tinyurl.com/Slow-Sour-Crop
It is interesting to note that when I have observed the parents weaning out their babies, there is never any issues with crops. The parents also feed small amounts and less often. If the crop is felt on a patent fledged baby the average size is going to be the size of a green grape. From observing this it is reasonable to come to the conclusion that crop issues are condition created by humans rather than a problem with the bird. It is interesting to note that many hand-feeders do the opposite and will feed 15-20cc per feeding. When searching the internet there are still sites with outdated info in regards to frequencies and amounts to feed. There is no reason for a baby to be feed more than 10cc at a feeding. I have found that weight gain and health was better feedingless, more in keeping of the amounts the parents would have fed.
Slow/Sour Crop, Crop or GI Stasis:
Crop Stasis occurs when the food will not move out of the crop at all. GI Stasis is when there is no movement at all in the digestive tract. Crop Stasis is usually secondary to of an infection further on in the digestive tract. The stasis halts the digestion of food, which in turn backs up the crop, so that the food has nowhere to go. The baby will die of starvation if this condition is not corrected.
Sour crop is a term that means that the food in the crop has soured or spoiled. Formula that is cold will contribute sour crop. When the contents of the crop have not emptied, then this can lead to slow crop and/or crop stasis. Candida, commonly referred to as Yeast, is normally present within the body in small amounts. When the crop contents turn sour it will take advantage of the situation to grow out of control, contributing to a Candida infection of the crop. In addition is the possibility of a bacterial infection of the crop from the spoiled food. The baby will need the crop flushed out. A vet can/will determine the proper medications, if needed.
THIS ALBUM HAS HELPFUL ILLUSTRATIONS:
http://tinypic.com/a/34uhd/3
THIS ARTICCLE SHOWS HOW:
Crop Bra: https://tinyurl.com/y4gbhf7b
Avoid giving/feeding any ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) when the crop is overstretched. I have found that the acidity tends to impair the tissues and muscles from repairing and will compound the problem.
Another cause of overstretched crop can be from a combination of soft foods that do not have much nutritional content in addition to too much warmth in the area (nestbox or brooder) that the baby is in. This is the main cause of a condition called Sour Crop. This article has a wealth of info.
https://tinyurl.com/Slow-Sour-Crop
It is interesting to note that when I have observed the parents weaning out their babies, there is never any issues with crops. The parents also feed small amounts and less often. If the crop is felt on a patent fledged baby the average size is going to be the size of a green grape. From observing this it is reasonable to come to the conclusion that crop issues are condition created by humans rather than a problem with the bird. It is interesting to note that many hand-feeders do the opposite and will feed 15-20cc per feeding. When searching the internet there are still sites with outdated info in regards to frequencies and amounts to feed. There is no reason for a baby to be feed more than 10cc at a feeding. I have found that weight gain and health was better feedingless, more in keeping of the amounts the parents would have fed.
Slow/Sour Crop, Crop or GI Stasis:
Crop Stasis occurs when the food will not move out of the crop at all. GI Stasis is when there is no movement at all in the digestive tract. Crop Stasis is usually secondary to of an infection further on in the digestive tract. The stasis halts the digestion of food, which in turn backs up the crop, so that the food has nowhere to go. The baby will die of starvation if this condition is not corrected.
Sour crop is a term that means that the food in the crop has soured or spoiled. Formula that is cold will contribute sour crop. When the contents of the crop have not emptied, then this can lead to slow crop and/or crop stasis. Candida, commonly referred to as Yeast, is normally present within the body in small amounts. When the crop contents turn sour it will take advantage of the situation to grow out of control, contributing to a Candida infection of the crop. In addition is the possibility of a bacterial infection of the crop from the spoiled food. The baby will need the crop flushed out. A vet can/will determine the proper medications, if needed.
THIS ALBUM HAS HELPFUL ILLUSTRATIONS:
http://tinypic.com/a/34uhd/3
Burnt or Scalded Crop: If one baby has signs of crop burn inspect all the babies. Some common causes are… Feeding formula that is not at the proper temp. Ideally with cockatiel babies the formula temps should range from 104-106 degrees.
Scalding and mild crop burns may result in tissue swelling, erythema, edema, pale skin tone, and blisters forming on the surface. The first signs of severe damage will be the crop skin will first get a reddened and sunburnt look within 30 min to 2-3 hours.
If blisters have not formed on the surface, massage this area with an ice cube every 1-2 hours. Vitamin A & E ointment should also be gently massaged into the damaged tissue.
The second stage is Blisters on the surface of the skin by around 6-12 hours. Cool down the skin and pat the skin dry, and apply the A & E ointment. At this stage the crop skin will have adhered to the overlying (esophagus) skin, and the burn will progress thru both layers of tissue.
I have found that several layers of New-Skin applied (drying between each layer) over the damaged area can protect and support the damaged tissue. Get to a vet ASAP, if one is open and available.
As the burn progress sores/scabs (fistulas) are seen on the surface as tissues die. The scab means the skin is now hyperemic and a fistula has developed. At this point if there is too much pressure from food inside the crop the crop walls will rupture. Food put into the crop will leak out of the wound. If left uncorrected, infection will set in, and the baby will starve to death because the crop will no longer hold food. When this happens the only way to correct this problem is for the vet to suture the inner and outer layers, which consist of the crop and the esophagus.
Antibiotics must be administered to prevent infection. If left uncorrected, infection will set in, and the baby will starve to death because the crop will no longer hold food.
Trauma to the Inside of the Mouth or Crop can result in improper use of a utensil. Accidents can happen, so research and learning from an experienced breeder before you even begin is the first step to preventing such things from happening. Refer to the Hand-feeding Utensils article for additional info. https://tinyurl.com/Feeding-Utencils
Malformed/Deviated Beaks: Is rare, but worth mentioning. Check the inside of the mouth when babies are pulled to make sure that there is no buildup of food around the sides of the beak or under the tongue. The inside of the mouth should be healthy and pink. If food is buildup under/around the tongue it is breeding grounds for yeast and/or bacteria. If the mouth is not cleaned, this can lead to other problems such as a crop
Malformed/Deviated Beaks: Is rare, but worth mentioning. Check the inside of the mouth when babies are pulled to make sure that there is no buildup of food around the sides of the beak or under the tongue. The inside of the mouth should be healthy and pink. If food is buildup under/around the tongue it is breeding grounds for yeast and/or bacteria. If the mouth is not cleaned, this can lead to other problems such as a crop
Infection or the improper growth of the beak. When hand-feeding, bear in mind that babies beaks are still soft. The pressure of improperly holding the head and undue pressure to the sides of the beak can contribute to malformation in the beak.
The two most common beak deviations are scissor's beak and mandibular prognathism. Scissor beak is a lateral deviation of either upper or lower beak, while mandibular prognathism is a condition where the upper beak incorrectly fits inside the lower beak.
If these deviations are caught early enough, they can be corrected.
Note: Bear in mind that each baby is an individual.
Personality and emotional needs can be seen and vary within a clutch. Consequently, how your babies act may not be the same as what another breeder reports that they have experienced. Environment, feeding techniques, handling and other factors have an influence. The most important thing is to strive for healthy babies. Remember that some just breeze through the hand-feeding experience and some tend to be more emotionally immature, but they grow out of it once weaned.
SOME MORE ILLUSTRATIONS:
http://tinypic.com/a/2r21w/3
The two most common beak deviations are scissor's beak and mandibular prognathism. Scissor beak is a lateral deviation of either upper or lower beak, while mandibular prognathism is a condition where the upper beak incorrectly fits inside the lower beak.
If these deviations are caught early enough, they can be corrected.
Note: Bear in mind that each baby is an individual.
Personality and emotional needs can be seen and vary within a clutch. Consequently, how your babies act may not be the same as what another breeder reports that they have experienced. Environment, feeding techniques, handling and other factors have an influence. The most important thing is to strive for healthy babies. Remember that some just breeze through the hand-feeding experience and some tend to be more emotionally immature, but they grow out of it once weaned.
SOME MORE ILLUSTRATIONS:
http://tinypic.com/a/2r21w/3
NOTE This is another form of beak trauma. Please note, if there is a small amount of tissue at the base of the rip then this increases the chances of new growth. As it is growing in it will have to be shaped and trimmed.
Keep track of the weight of the other baby. This may be the cause of unknown weight lose and/or deaths.
Keep track of the weight of the other baby. This may be the cause of unknown weight lose and/or deaths.
ALWAYS check the weight of babies during hand-feeding and especially at weaning or any unseal activities, such as shown above. Use a scale AND physically examine the bird. The chart below is applicable for any aged bird or species.
NOTE: Even though this article is about and shows cockatiels it is helpful for other species of birds
WHEW!! My apologies for the lengthily article. Even so I may have missed some things. If so please let me know and I can add your contributed info to this article. Email me at ask.noodles@outlook.com
Copyright © 1993-2019
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You may use parts of this article for your own noncommercial and personal use only. Any other use of this article is strictly prohibited.
Copyright © 1993-2019
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be produced and/or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without prior permission by this author.
TERMS OF USE: Use of this work is subject to the following terms except as permitted under the Copyright Act of 1976 and the right to store or retrieve on copy of this work.
You may not decompile, dissemble, re-mix or reverse engineer, reproduce, modify, create derivative works based upon your own re-wording, transmit, distribute, disseminate, sell, publish or sub-license this work or any part of it without Susanne Russo’s (email ask.noodles@outlook.com )
You may use parts of this article for your own noncommercial and personal use only. Any other use of this article is strictly prohibited.
