CHRONIC EGG LAYING
A new approach for someone dealing with this
My advice gained by personal experience will be contrary to most advice out there. In fact, it is the direct opposite of most information that you have heard or read.
With that said I would like to bring up several points that I’ve learned that caused me to question several internet sites, people and related info about how to stop egg laying.
I’ll begin with some background on how most available information came about.
When the Avian Medicine Principles and Applications book came out in 1994 all vets since have used this info to help clients. The info that dealt with Chronic Egg Laying was in Chapter 29 in this link: http://avianmedicine.net/wp/publication_cat/avian-medicine/
Scroll to page 772. Look for this sentence: Diminishing exposure to light to only eight to ten hours a day should interrupt the hormonal cycle, and egg laying should cease.
It was just one simple word that vets had taken out of context and misinterpreted to provide a solution to a Chronic Egg Laying. The word was “should” and was taken to mean “would”
With that said I would like to bring up several points that I’ve learned that caused me to question several internet sites, people and related info about how to stop egg laying.
I’ll begin with some background on how most available information came about.
When the Avian Medicine Principles and Applications book came out in 1994 all vets since have used this info to help clients. The info that dealt with Chronic Egg Laying was in Chapter 29 in this link: http://avianmedicine.net/wp/publication_cat/avian-medicine/
Scroll to page 772. Look for this sentence: Diminishing exposure to light to only eight to ten hours a day should interrupt the hormonal cycle, and egg laying should cease.
It was just one simple word that vets had taken out of context and misinterpreted to provide a solution to a Chronic Egg Laying. The word was “should” and was taken to mean “would”
For further reading on this topic:
EXCESSIVE EGG-LAYING IN BIRDS (Notice this is from 2012 and changes from 1994 as to info/advice)
https://web.archive.org/web/20150522015056/http://www.wbeph.com/birds/excessive-egg-laying-in-birds/
Recognizing Chronic Egg-laying
https://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/chronic-egg-laying/
EXCESSIVE EGG-LAYING IN BIRDS (Notice this is from 2012 and changes from 1994 as to info/advice)
https://web.archive.org/web/20150522015056/http://www.wbeph.com/birds/excessive-egg-laying-in-birds/
Recognizing Chronic Egg-laying
https://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/chronic-egg-laying/
A side note: Yay! I was glad to see this section. Years ago, contrary to the keep the bird in darkness theories/advice that Dr. Harrison originally promoted I found 24/7 lighting was the best deterrent in my flock:
Quoted from article... I’ve taken the liberty to break up the following paragraph.
Manipulation of the light cycle is a simple but stressful way to interrupt egg-laying.
Leaving the hen in a cage exposed to continuous light for 3 to 7 days in a row may upset the circadian and annual rhythms to “reset” the reproductive hormones to a resting state.
Most birds will rest with 3 days of continuous bright light, but some may need up to 7 days.
The light always needs to be bright, about as bright as a room gets in the middle of the day.
You may need to leave on 300 to 400 watts worth of bright white incandescent bulbs in the room with the cage, or about 4200 lumens worth of daylight compact fluorescent bulbs (i.e., 95 CRI, > 5500°K).
You have to remove the nest box or anything that the bird could hide in or under to get away from the light.
If the hen goes off food or starts to appear fluffed or otherwise stressed, the natural day-night cycle should be resumed.
Light cycle manipulation can also be used as a preventive, with the treatment started about 3 to 4 weeks prior to the date that the first egg was laid. If the bird continues to lay after a light cycle treatment, more aggressive intervention may be needed.
NOTE: At the time of that writing there was a product called RELEAVES that use used with this info. Sadly, it is no longer available. The manufacturer (HEALx) went out of business. I have been in contact with a member of the Harrison team to see it can be independently made, the ingredients and ratios, etc. This is a flyer they had available. I will update this when I learn more.
Quoted from article... I’ve taken the liberty to break up the following paragraph.
Manipulation of the light cycle is a simple but stressful way to interrupt egg-laying.
Leaving the hen in a cage exposed to continuous light for 3 to 7 days in a row may upset the circadian and annual rhythms to “reset” the reproductive hormones to a resting state.
Most birds will rest with 3 days of continuous bright light, but some may need up to 7 days.
The light always needs to be bright, about as bright as a room gets in the middle of the day.
You may need to leave on 300 to 400 watts worth of bright white incandescent bulbs in the room with the cage, or about 4200 lumens worth of daylight compact fluorescent bulbs (i.e., 95 CRI, > 5500°K).
You have to remove the nest box or anything that the bird could hide in or under to get away from the light.
If the hen goes off food or starts to appear fluffed or otherwise stressed, the natural day-night cycle should be resumed.
Light cycle manipulation can also be used as a preventive, with the treatment started about 3 to 4 weeks prior to the date that the first egg was laid. If the bird continues to lay after a light cycle treatment, more aggressive intervention may be needed.
NOTE: At the time of that writing there was a product called RELEAVES that use used with this info. Sadly, it is no longer available. The manufacturer (HEALx) went out of business. I have been in contact with a member of the Harrison team to see it can be independently made, the ingredients and ratios, etc. This is a flyer they had available. I will update this when I learn more.
Now back to the basics of my article and my thoughts and concerns.
ALL ignored common sense that this did not make sense and that if done long term could possibly cause more harm than good.
From various groups I’ve noticed that in addition to changing and moving objects around in the cage many advocated a completely covered the cage.
First off, from my way of thinking as a cockatiel breeder is you are creating an environment similar to a nestbox. In doing so this is not going to decrease hormonal levels it will increase them. If you look inside of a nestbox it is dark.
Also, an important point to consider is if this is a single hen without another bird to relieve her from nesting, she is going to very reluctant to leave the “nest” during and once all eggs are layed. When depriving the laying hen from full light, especially 24/7, the bird is reluctant to move around in the dark to eat and do other body functions.
This can be very stressful, and stress can be the gateway to secondary yeast/bacterial infections. For example: When poop is held in the Cloaca there is also the risk of secondary problems and increasing the chances of a prolapse of the Cloaca. The Cloaca is the last stage of the digestive tract and it extracts the last nutrients and fluids in the feces before expelling from the body. There are non-pathogenic bacteria contained in the feces and if held too long could become pathogenic.
Below are a few links to read of things that can go wrong followed with a related illustration.
Reproductive Problems in Pet Birds Peter S. Sakas DVM, MS http://nilesanimalhospital.com/files/2012/05/Reproductive-Problems-in-Birds.pdf
Complications of egg laying
http://nilesanimalhospital.com/files/2012/05/Complications-of-Egg-Laying-Activity.pdf
Egg Binding, Dystocia https://web.archive.org/web/20171030030008/http://www.justcockatiels.net/egg-related-problems.html
ALL ignored common sense that this did not make sense and that if done long term could possibly cause more harm than good.
From various groups I’ve noticed that in addition to changing and moving objects around in the cage many advocated a completely covered the cage.
First off, from my way of thinking as a cockatiel breeder is you are creating an environment similar to a nestbox. In doing so this is not going to decrease hormonal levels it will increase them. If you look inside of a nestbox it is dark.
Also, an important point to consider is if this is a single hen without another bird to relieve her from nesting, she is going to very reluctant to leave the “nest” during and once all eggs are layed. When depriving the laying hen from full light, especially 24/7, the bird is reluctant to move around in the dark to eat and do other body functions.
This can be very stressful, and stress can be the gateway to secondary yeast/bacterial infections. For example: When poop is held in the Cloaca there is also the risk of secondary problems and increasing the chances of a prolapse of the Cloaca. The Cloaca is the last stage of the digestive tract and it extracts the last nutrients and fluids in the feces before expelling from the body. There are non-pathogenic bacteria contained in the feces and if held too long could become pathogenic.
Below are a few links to read of things that can go wrong followed with a related illustration.
Reproductive Problems in Pet Birds Peter S. Sakas DVM, MS http://nilesanimalhospital.com/files/2012/05/Reproductive-Problems-in-Birds.pdf
Complications of egg laying
http://nilesanimalhospital.com/files/2012/05/Complications-of-Egg-Laying-Activity.pdf
Egg Binding, Dystocia https://web.archive.org/web/20171030030008/http://www.justcockatiels.net/egg-related-problems.html
Prolapse: A Secondary Problem
https://web.archive.org/web/20171031224641/http://www.internationalcockatielresource.com/prolapse-a-secondy-problem.html
https://web.archive.org/web/20171031224641/http://www.internationalcockatielresource.com/prolapse-a-secondy-problem.html
Note, I am working on an article: Is this Egg Binding or Peritonitis? I will add the link to this once finished. In the interim I will include some pixs of what is Normal and Abnormal.
My apologies for the scary pixs. I used these and the links to several articles as examples of what can go wrong or to watch for. NO hen, be it a Pet or Breeder will have these problems if diet, lighting and other essentials are provided. Consider it as forewarned is forearmed.
Once upon a time I was a very large breeder and used the current recommendations of covering the cage, changing things around, playing around with light cycles, etc. With some hens it helped, but with others they started acting sickly, and one hen had a prolapse that encased the egg she was laying. From that experience, after the hen died, I learned that access to food and light would have prevented this.
Given what I learned I decided to go against the flow, so to speak, and not do any of the previous things I did. I left the lights ON 24/7 and was surprised that this deterred Trouble, my most chronic egg layer that was laying at the time. I should note that at that time I was breeding inside. I had had breeding pairs outside and did not have any hens that just would not stop laying.
Hmmm...Why, I thought. With the outside birds I kept 30-40 watt lighting available all night. I did this so that if anything disturbed them during the night, spook them off the nest, they can see what it was and see to get back to the nest. This cut down on lost eggs and chicks.
While I am on the topic of lighting, I would like to stress that it is very important ALSO for calcium absorption for good, strong eggshells. Lack of calcium in the bloodstream while the shell is being formed increases the risks of egg binding and other reproductive issues.
Proper lighting plays an important role in good reproductive health of hens. Either available in the form of real sunlight (not filtered thru glass) or from Full Spectrum Lighting (FSL) In simple terms the skin absorbs the UV (ultra violet) rays from the lighting and the body converts it to useable D3, and this in turn aids the uptake of usable calcium.
The reason why either access to real sunlight (not filtered thru a window) or Full Spectrum Lighting (FSL) is important is that is that birds absorb the light into their skin. The body converts it to vitamin D3, also known as cholecalciferol. D3 is required in the intestines to help absorb calcium to regulate important blood calcium levels such as the hen is forming the shell in the uterus. Calcium is then drawn from the bones via the blood stream to the uterus (shell gland).
I realize that many people may be on a limited budget or in an apartment or housing where they cannot bring the birds outside. FSL lighting can be very expensive. I have used and found that when I had some serious egg laying problems with hen that Plant and Aquarium lights worked just as well placed on the top of her cage.
Once upon a time I was a very large breeder and used the current recommendations of covering the cage, changing things around, playing around with light cycles, etc. With some hens it helped, but with others they started acting sickly, and one hen had a prolapse that encased the egg she was laying. From that experience, after the hen died, I learned that access to food and light would have prevented this.
Given what I learned I decided to go against the flow, so to speak, and not do any of the previous things I did. I left the lights ON 24/7 and was surprised that this deterred Trouble, my most chronic egg layer that was laying at the time. I should note that at that time I was breeding inside. I had had breeding pairs outside and did not have any hens that just would not stop laying.
Hmmm...Why, I thought. With the outside birds I kept 30-40 watt lighting available all night. I did this so that if anything disturbed them during the night, spook them off the nest, they can see what it was and see to get back to the nest. This cut down on lost eggs and chicks.
While I am on the topic of lighting, I would like to stress that it is very important ALSO for calcium absorption for good, strong eggshells. Lack of calcium in the bloodstream while the shell is being formed increases the risks of egg binding and other reproductive issues.
Proper lighting plays an important role in good reproductive health of hens. Either available in the form of real sunlight (not filtered thru glass) or from Full Spectrum Lighting (FSL) In simple terms the skin absorbs the UV (ultra violet) rays from the lighting and the body converts it to useable D3, and this in turn aids the uptake of usable calcium.
The reason why either access to real sunlight (not filtered thru a window) or Full Spectrum Lighting (FSL) is important is that is that birds absorb the light into their skin. The body converts it to vitamin D3, also known as cholecalciferol. D3 is required in the intestines to help absorb calcium to regulate important blood calcium levels such as the hen is forming the shell in the uterus. Calcium is then drawn from the bones via the blood stream to the uterus (shell gland).
I realize that many people may be on a limited budget or in an apartment or housing where they cannot bring the birds outside. FSL lighting can be very expensive. I have used and found that when I had some serious egg laying problems with hen that Plant and Aquarium lights worked just as well placed on the top of her cage.
Some Cautions: This form (sunlight or FSL) of vitamin D3 is far safer than supplementing with vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 is a fat-soluble vitamin, which gets stored in the body, and if supplementing in excess this can create a toxicity. It can also contribute to hypercalcemia (too much calcium in the blood) which affects the heart, other organs and contributes to liver toxicosis, calcification of the kidneys and gout.
Therefore, when feeding pellets, (they do contain D3 and calcium) you should never give additional supplements that contain (D3) and calcium because the diet is designed to provide what the bird needs.
If feeding a varied diet consisting of pellets (approx.. 20%) , seed, and fresh greens/veggies then it is safe to provide a calcium source, such as cuttlebone and/or mineral block. FSL and sunlight access are natural forms of sources for D3 and are safer and more easily assimilated than from artificial sources.
Now back on topic. Somewhere along the way Dr. Harrison, the author of Avian Medicine, discovered the same thing, which was opposite of what he had previously published...meaning full lighting was essential to deter laying. This is a copy of a flyer he had.
Therefore, when feeding pellets, (they do contain D3 and calcium) you should never give additional supplements that contain (D3) and calcium because the diet is designed to provide what the bird needs.
If feeding a varied diet consisting of pellets (approx.. 20%) , seed, and fresh greens/veggies then it is safe to provide a calcium source, such as cuttlebone and/or mineral block. FSL and sunlight access are natural forms of sources for D3 and are safer and more easily assimilated than from artificial sources.
Now back on topic. Somewhere along the way Dr. Harrison, the author of Avian Medicine, discovered the same thing, which was opposite of what he had previously published...meaning full lighting was essential to deter laying. This is a copy of a flyer he had.
He developed a product called RELEAVES, to be used with Light Cycle Therapy. Sadly, RELEAVES is no longer available.
These are my recommendation of what worked for me.
It is 4 simple steps will work towards your goal of stopping your hen from laying.
1…It may be worth a try to find/obtain (Amazon would have this) dried Raspberry leaves to add to any veggies or soft foods given. Or a little Raspberry Extract in the drinking water.
2…Do not cover the entire cage. If your bird has been used to the cage covered, then only do 3 sides. You do not want to restrict her from your light source.
3…Remove anything that can be used as a nest that will encourage laying when you first notice she is acting hormonal and broody. If she does lay just provide a flat cushioned surface for the egg.
4…Most importantly leave the lights on 24/7 where your bird is located. This could even be a light/lamp on to just keep light on in front of the cage or on top of the cage. You can turn the room lights out.
This is worth repeating...It is important to provide a good diet during egg laying. Bear in mind a hen can lay an unlimited amount of eggs with no heath risks if you provide the essentials of a good diet and proper lighting.
Shown is an illustration of what a hen needs to produce good strong eggs and reduce the risks of reproductive heath related problems. You may be thinking, Yeah, but I am not breeding her. I only want her to stop laying.
These are my recommendation of what worked for me.
It is 4 simple steps will work towards your goal of stopping your hen from laying.
1…It may be worth a try to find/obtain (Amazon would have this) dried Raspberry leaves to add to any veggies or soft foods given. Or a little Raspberry Extract in the drinking water.
2…Do not cover the entire cage. If your bird has been used to the cage covered, then only do 3 sides. You do not want to restrict her from your light source.
3…Remove anything that can be used as a nest that will encourage laying when you first notice she is acting hormonal and broody. If she does lay just provide a flat cushioned surface for the egg.
4…Most importantly leave the lights on 24/7 where your bird is located. This could even be a light/lamp on to just keep light on in front of the cage or on top of the cage. You can turn the room lights out.
This is worth repeating...It is important to provide a good diet during egg laying. Bear in mind a hen can lay an unlimited amount of eggs with no heath risks if you provide the essentials of a good diet and proper lighting.
Shown is an illustration of what a hen needs to produce good strong eggs and reduce the risks of reproductive heath related problems. You may be thinking, Yeah, but I am not breeding her. I only want her to stop laying.
Check each egg as it is layed. The shell should be hard and free of cracks and blemishes. This chart shows what to look for.
In summary, using light therapy, from my experience, has stopped my hens from laying by the 2nd or 3rd egg. If you start it when you first notice your hen is looking for nesting sites, acting hormonal or broody this will go towards discouraging her from laying.
Please feel free to make suggestions or share your experiences with using the info in this article. If your hen does lay an egg that you feel might be abnormal please take clear pixs and email them to me. Include info on diet, lighting, etc. to: ask.noodles@outlook.com
Copyright © 1993-2019
All rights reserved. No part of this article may be produced and/or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without prior permission by this author.
TERMS OF USE: Use of this work is subject to the following terms except as permitted under the Copyright Act of 1976 and the right to store or retrieve on copy of this article.
You may not decompile, dissemble, re-mix or reverse engineer, reproduce, modify, create derivative works based upon your own re-wording, transmit, distribute, disseminate, sell, publish or sublicense this work or any part of it without Susanne Russo’s (email ask.noodles@outlook.com )
You may use parts of this article for your own noncommercial and personal use only. Any other use of this article is strictly prohibited.
Please feel free to make suggestions or share your experiences with using the info in this article. If your hen does lay an egg that you feel might be abnormal please take clear pixs and email them to me. Include info on diet, lighting, etc. to: ask.noodles@outlook.com
Copyright © 1993-2019
All rights reserved. No part of this article may be produced and/or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without prior permission by this author.
TERMS OF USE: Use of this work is subject to the following terms except as permitted under the Copyright Act of 1976 and the right to store or retrieve on copy of this article.
You may not decompile, dissemble, re-mix or reverse engineer, reproduce, modify, create derivative works based upon your own re-wording, transmit, distribute, disseminate, sell, publish or sublicense this work or any part of it without Susanne Russo’s (email ask.noodles@outlook.com )
You may use parts of this article for your own noncommercial and personal use only. Any other use of this article is strictly prohibited.
